With the 2015 summer collection, the design team of Jil Sander prepares to debut next September with the new Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga. Born in the region of Marche, Italy, Paglialunga arrived in Milan where he made his first experiences before working for the international Maison Romeo Gigli. Then Prada for 13 years and finally Vionnet, where he has been the Creative Director since 2009. In this collection, we breathed the first breeze of his refined and cosmopolitan approach, able to lead to a practical wardrobe and maniacally orientated to design. The creative team has retraced back the heritage of the brand to discover its pure essence. When it was founded in 1973 in Hamburg, the aim was to meet the needs of a growing class of businesswoman who needed (probably without realizing) a job uniform able to let them feel cosmopolitan and ‘cool’, rather than secretarial-dowdy. On this insight, in the 1980s, Jil Sander built her empire by breaking all the stylistic rules. She and her trademark are since that time the undisputed champions of minimalism, with a palette consistently dominated by neutrals colours, unusual textures and cutting-edge technological fabrics. From womenswear to menswear design tradition is unchanged, and in this collection, we can feel the whole functional spirit of the origins – never as today the man, cosmopolitan and committed worker, seeks for a look able to let him feel unique and valued – and the stylistic codes. The traditional tailoring is on the top of the agenda, with 3-button jacket with high shoulders, slim front and rear volume. About the colours, the natural tones dominate the scene. White watercolour, grey and pink is combined for brilliant files on fabrics like cotton and technical materials. Great attention to fabrics: discrete jacquard, abstract logos and an eclectic geometric print inspired by musical movements.
Animation by Francesco Diomedi. Video courtesy of Jil Sander.
Marco Magalini speaking 25 June 2014 / © All rights reserved