Between technology and analogue, synthetic and organic, contemporary fashion seems to embody a strong dichotomy between a futuristic, digital attitude and a traditional and artisanal one. The key word is integration. Fusion takes place through a new way of understanding handcrafting and our cultural heritage.

Balmain

A nature after nature, which doesn’t separate the two worlds as they were before the advent of the web, but integrates them. Here then are Marco de Vincenzo’s iridescent macro covers that seem like a new generation of outerwear, as does John Galliano’s Cyber collection for Maison Margiela, Balmain or Jeremy Scott’s garments, which investigate every aspect of the reflective, from silver to luminescent multicolour, passing through a fluorescent logic made of plastic and reflective fabrics.

Ashish

Thus not one but thousands of colours in an infinite range of possibilities, the rainbow’s phantasmagoria. Even at Prada there are appliqués, embroidery and synthetic materials with galoshes and dresses in vibrant tones. Primary colours for Balenciaga that, in a return to the 80s, once again proposes the jacket in flame red and cobalt blue, paired with black, and layered with gigantic parkas. Ethnic fabrics by Sacai illuminate a range that gives new life to Nordic or Caucasian style woollens and Tom Ford’s eco-furs appear speckled cyber wild as do Marni’s feline prints in fuchsia and mint green. There are loads of interesting new brands, from Ashish to Gipsy Sport and from Y-Project to Palm Angels that are developing luminescent and interactive patterns, ethnic-electronic embroidery, mirrored metals and transparent plastics. Yoshiyuki Miyamae offers wondrous, colourful twists from cobalt blue to yellow, green, red, and violet in sculptural interpretations for Issey Miyake.

Alessandro Turci speaking

Issey Miyake